People Watching-Niagara On the Lake~August

A Gazebo is not, after all, a meat larder.  (Thomasina in Arcadia)

The Bat Mobile went by in a blur; was that Joker behind the wheel?  Wasn’t sure if my eyes were tricking me; the cocktails and wine may still be speaking to me. It doesn’t do to overindulge when you’ve a full day of People Watching ahead of you.  So not quite up with the Sunday morning birds, but managed some form of breakfast before setting off to Niagara On The Lake.  Unfortunate scheduling on my part choosing an 11:30 show, but have since learned my lesson.

After a week of cubicle mode(where I tried to maintain holiday mode for another five days) I was more than ready to strike out again.  Many people had the same idea because the highway was unusually busy and the sighting of some clown behind the wheel of Bat Man’s car was a refreshing sight.  Better than watching the driver to my right fling his chewing gum out the window?  Your gum has gone has gone stale, do you A) wrap it in a tissue and place it inside your garbage compartment or B) fling it out the window and hope it doesn’t hit a passing motorcyclist?

Niagara Stone Road can be a breaking point for drivers and it’s got to be frustrating for the locals should they get stuck behind a tourist doing 40 kmph.  It’s confusing for visitors as the speed limit changes from 80 to 50 to 70 back to 80 then 50 again.  Then again, they are too busy sightseeing to pay any attention to speed limits.

Secured the last parking space in town.  The church crowds are out in full force and parking is a premium up until 7PM ish.  What are tourists doing up at this time anyway? When I’m doing B & B it’s a leisurely breakfast followed by another leisurely few hours. 

 

First stop was Trifles with two one act plays, Trifles by Susan Glaspell and A Wife For a Life by Eugene O’Neill .  Trifles reminded me of Swann, mentioned here before; things going on in farmhouses and no one on the outside knows because of the isolation.  Enjoyed this play very much.  The second play was regarded by the playwright as weak and while the acting is very good(how can you go wrong with Benedict Campbell?) the lines really don’t give the cast much to work with.  At the very least, it would be good idea to switch the play order.  You would come away more satisfied.  Spoke to a couple up from St. Louis-they were raving about Arcadia.

Seven and a half hours to kill.

Took lunch at The Prince of Wales, but, in the Churchill Lounge this time.  As mentioned, no smoked salmon on the menu in the Drawing room so it was time to seek out something different.  A wedding reception was in full swing in the banquet room and tables were jammed save for the chess table so made straight for it.  Enjoying the music when one of the guests approached the bar and asked for it to be turned off.  Well that got my back up (thought he was having a senior moment) until said guest sat down at his keyboard and opened  his American Songbook.  He was helped along with his drummer.  Very mellow lunch hour jazz.  Not sure it was appreciated by the staff, though.  It’s like Xmas carols in November; clerks struggling to maintain sanity.  That senior moment thing-something happens to seniors when the turn 80.  I've seen it time and time again. They regress and get and get very demanding.  True story.

Started with scallop ceviche which was served with carrot, black bean and avocado;  delicious.  Tricky to get avocado at just the right time; it can be rubbery or mushy or turning brown before your eyes.  Followed the scallops with the charcuterie platter-pate, terrine, house cured sausage and ham; came with house tomato sauce and pickled vegetable.  Warning, the sausage is hot and yes, the little green pickles have some heat.  The bread was soft, which makes a change from the usual stale, crispy slices most places serve up.   Sat across from the winner of the Patrick Stewart look-alike contest.  Good view of the street.

A couple came in for a quick pint.  They had wine tasting to get to and thought to get beer first to put something on their stomachs.  Historically, one would take a little food before a tasting, but, if a belly full of ale is more your thing then I’m not going to stop you.  The bartender was happy to have someone to talk to about local ales. 

After ingesting for a couple of hours, it was time to move on.  After many years in NOTL, you no longer need to browse the shops so walked down King Street and had a look at some of the older properties.  This gentleman was getting some shade at Parliament Oak School.

 

 

This old entrance is now a driveway to woodland.

 

A quiet corner in a back garden.

 

 

Walked through Butlers Barracks.  Someone has destroyed one of the historic plaques by taking a pen to all the soldiers’ heads.  One day the culprit will find out it’s their tax dollars that paid for plaques like this and they will be on a rant about vandalism having conveniently forgotten about their little jaunt through the park all those years ago.  No benches in sight so on to Victoria Park which was comfortably full.  Avoid this space on National holidays, though.  Made great strides with The Emperor of Paris by CS Richardson.  A nice read; very Spartan writing style.

The kids got a tad rambunctious and took refuge in the graveyard of St. Marks.  Quite a few visitors here today.

 

 

Time for coffee and a study in contrast.  Always go with Balzac’s when in Stratford or Toronto; they seem to take their coffee making seriously (have yet to try Kitchener or Liberty Village).  Ordered the very same thing as last time and was handed a plastic beaker filled with ice and mocha mix.  I looked at in disgust and questioned the server.  What is this?  Did you brew an espresso in the last 30 seconds?  Where is the milk? The server didn’t give a damn and looked at me like I’d just grown a second head.  What a vile drink.  I hate to say it but I think you’d be better off at Starbucks when in NOTL.  Interestingly, Tim Hortons was turned down for a spot in town, but, they let Balzac’s and Starbucks in.  The patio at The Queen’s Landing does a nice dessert and cappuccino.  If all else fails, head there.  Recommend the crème  brulee.

Some well planted frontages.

 

 

A family tried to convince one of their number that the Public Washrooms are OK but she would have none of it. I would agree with the family here.  Having considered publication of “Where To Pee In Ontario”, this would be one of the better spots.  FYI.

The Hanging Gardens of NOTL.

 

 

 

Quick whip through Crabtree and Evelyn.  If you can’t get to a shower before the show, then at least give yourself a spritzer.  Like my lipsticks, my perfume is being discontinued as Ms. Hicks’ contract is running out.  But let’s not turn this into this into an “exercise, salad & make-up post”.  I promise, no pictures from Sephora.  Not that I ever would; I’ve never been in there.

 

Time for Arcadia by Tom Stoppard.  This is an exquisite play and I cannot fault it at all.  It’s a mystery set in both the 1800’s and modern day, it alternates back and forth and is crammed with references to early English gardeners to Quantum physics and there is great line about throwing physicists off a cliff but won’t spoil the punch line here.  It ends beautifully; the music and lighting are very nicely done.  Would love to have seen Bill Nighy in the UK version.

Did you know they sell Preparation H at the gift shop?  Oh, yes.  In fact they had a run on it because the front row seats at the Studio Theatre are so damned uncomfortable you’re going to need it about a quarter of the way through the show.  (Just starting to get all the feeling back in the buttocks and it’s now Friday.) Suffice to say, pick anywhere but Row A.  Bottom line (excuse pun), a great show; wouldn’t want to see it at the Festival Theatre as some have suggested.  The studio is a nice, intimate space. 

Crawled home; this is the QEW remember and construction has been ongoing for what, four years now?  Not sure if I’ll be around to see it completed.

Until next time.

 

 

People Watching-Niagara on the Lake

Yes, we have no smoked salmon!  

 

 

 

 

Amongst the great questions of our time, none present so great an opportunity for debate as, “Is Afternoon Tea complete without smoked salmon sandwiches with the crusts cut off?” It had been two years since I last took Afternoon Tea at the Prince of Wales and the first thing to jump out at me was no salmon on the plate.  The horror!  It has been replaced by some kind of salmon puree in a frothy, cream cheese-like spread.  It was lacking in the oomph department. According to our hostess, Sandy,  they are catering to the masses who aren’t that keen on fish.  Before you think I’m blowing this completely out of proportion, I noted that the guests at the next table (all three of them) were wondering where the salmon was, also.  And, they took considerable time filling in the comment card calling for a return to this sandwich filling.

 

 

 

 

Served in the Drawing Room of the great hotel, tea is a fine treat complete with warm scone, cream & jam, pastries and the requisite egg, ham & cheese, cucumber and of course salmon sandwiches.  This is a very intimate drawing room.  Reservations are recommended and I would suggest asking for the table by the mirror- comfortable wing back chairs and a good view of the room.  Alternatively take a table in the sunroom and people-watch the crowds go by.  Go with a 3 o’clock sitting-the rush is over by then.  I like the new uniforms-black dresses and white collars. 

 

Things were very 19^th century what with all this Edward VII watching and a Tapestry interview on the drive in about journal keepers of the 1800’s writing for posterity.  And there I was scratching away at my little black book while drinking copious amounts of tea.

 

 



 

 

Took a run over to Queenston Heights to burn off the tea.  I think most people tend to miss this during their visit to the area primarily because they can’t find the correct driveway with which to get into the place and then they wind up on the traffic circle where they get really confused.  Traffic circles still being quite an alien concept to most North Americans.  There’s lots of parkland and lots of shade.  The Brock and Secord monuments are here.  At the foot of the Brock monument, someone has placed their own memorial to Tecumseh.  (Don’t think he’s mentioned on any of the plaques, either.)  There were a number of people making the climb from Queenston proper to the Heights.  Not to be undertaken lightly.  It’s steep climb in cool conditions and I didn’t see a defibrillator anywhere.

 

 

 

Remember when I said don’t complain about the heat?  You did not listen to me, did you?  First you whined about the cold spring and when Summer arrives (right on schedule) you complain about the temperature.  The walk from the car to the hotel was just about bearable and I must admit I did not want to step back into the humidity.  I had found the last shady parking space so that was a bonus.  Debated whether to move at all because in addition to the regular tourists and the Shaw Festival, the Music Festival is also in full swing and that means that if you vacate your space to travel around the area you may be up the proverbial creek when you come to find a spot at show time. I would say every guest that walked in the place was thankful to be in air conditioned comfort (although the cream was struggling to keep its consistency under the conditions).  See SCONE TO JAM TO CREAM  paper for a look at the precise ratio of topping to scone required for optimum enjoyment.

 

Hello to our American cousins…

 

Note to self:  even though it’s sunset, don’t sit on a concrete bench that’s been in the sun all day.  The radiant heat will fry your backside and suck what little energy you have left.

   

 

 

 

 

The speed limit on the Niagara Parkway is 50 kmh.  However, the tourists drive 30 and most everyone else would be content to do 70.  Patience is tested and double yellow lines are crossed.

 

Time for a small jaunt through St. Marks.  Did you know about the Summer concert series?  Have a look at NIAGARA MUSIC FESTIVAL .

 

 

 

 

Requisite pre-show coffee.  2.5 inches of whipped cream atop the Frappucino.  Shudder. Two teachers grading papers in the corner.  They suspected one student of plagiarism and I got a crash course in how to prove it.  Two books to put on the list- Malcom Gladwell’s What the Dog Saw and How to Create the Perfect Wife by Wendy Moore.

Full house at Major Barbara.  A play you can sink your teeth into.  Good comedy/drama mix clocking in at nigh on three hours so plan your visit accordingly. Excellent cast; lots of favourites including Benedict Campbell, Laurie Paton & Nicole Underhay.  Three cushions figured prominently.  One wouldn’t stay where it was supposed to and the cast took turns trying to prop it back up, to no avail.   

 

Still on caffeine high.  Starting petition to bring back smoked salmon!

The Ginger Restaurant~Niagara on the Lake

Did promise I would write about this restaurant and here we are.  Although, after sending my compliments to the restaurant, I was asked to post on Trip Advisor.  Why do we have go to these sources?  Can we not just take pot luck on something?  I always say it's enough that I've told you about it; you don't need six other opinions.  As with anywhere, you should always take a second trip and then make up your mind.

I was swapping restaurant recommendations recently and the crowd wanted to know where to go in Niagara on the Lake.

I've visited The Ginger on two previous occasions.  It is located at  390 Mary St.  in front of The Orchid Inn.  Heading North down Mississauga Road, turn left at the Tim Horton's and it's just at the bend in the road.

The Ginger is located a few blocks out of the NOTL core. Not a tourist trap. Well patronized by the locals so if you have had enough of battling the crowds, give it a try.

Asian Fusion vein of cooking.  Small menus for starter and mains.  Three desserts; all made from scratch. Vegetarian choice on each menu.

The restaurant is small and reservations are recommended.  I'm pre-theatre so it's always very quiet at 5PM. Tablecloth? Yes.  Cloth napkin? Yes.    Don't like this trend in better restaurants to plastic, picnic table style cloths.  The Trip Advisor pic does nothing for the restaurant.  Don't go by the reviewer photos. (One reviewer had nothing critical to say but did take the place to task about why there were no baskets of bread.  I ask you.  It is not an obligation to present bread baskets.  And this is not the type of restaurant that does bread.  If you have only positive comments don't reach for something that doesn't make sense.)

Black and white photography on the walls; very clean lines.  Service is prompt.  The host checks in on you during dinner but what I like is that you're pretty much left alone to enjoy your meal.  I cannot abide the constant badgering at some places.  How can I comment on the dinner if I haven't had a chance to eat it?  I do not need to be asked, "How is everything?"  each and every ten minutes.  We don't take enough time with our food these days.  Most of us are too busy shovelling it in.  Slow down and enjoy.

First visit went with the spring rolls and the coconut chicken.  Crisp, hot rolls and a very generous curry with lots of chicken and rice.  Very tasty.

Second meal was gazpacho followed by breast of duck with raspberry(no cherries-hurrah!), parsnip puree and roast potatoes.  Delicious.

Scratch desserts include mousse and creme brulee.  There's always room for dessert.  Recommend the mousse.

Menu items change so look upon this as an opportunity to find another favourite dish.  Please consider The Ginger when you're next in the Niagara region.