People Watching-Small Town Ontario-Apple Country

Cobourg-Rice Lake-Port Hope

Up early and down to the common room for breakfast.  Cold juice!!  No newspaper, no eggs, no tea biscuits; world's smallest muffins.  Snoozed and fired up the coffee.  Chef Michael Smith this AM-love his kitchen.

Found that the bill had been shoved under the door in the middle of the night.  Please don't process the bill until it's time to do so.  Same assistant manager on duty as last night which puts her at an 18hr day-is she 24/7 or is she have a doppelganger?

Underestimated the length of time to load the car.  The doppelganger called down to the room-I hadn't returned the key by 11:00. She called housekeeping on the cell-where was I?  Where they going to send a search party out for me?  Made my way to the front desk.  I ask if it's customary to shove the bill under the door.  No pleasantries were exchanged.  Drive from Trenton to Coburg and the hotel service changes like night and day.

Downtown Cobourg.  I was on a mission.  I had driven from Hamilton with 26 empty wine bottles in the trunk.  Don't go to the beer store as a rule so it's either hoard bottles or forego the deposit and let the little man on the bicycle collect the returns.

 

 

 

Downtown Cobourg must have the largest number of coffee shops per capita.  It's your fault if you cannot find a decent beverage.  I like Human Bean.  Wandered through the antique stores. Enjoyed Antique Market Place.  Man looking for typewriters and a couple of women unloading a pick-up entertaining notions of Antique Roadshow finds.  Went home rather disappointed with a price of $60 on the mirror.  "But it's antique!"  The proprietor reminded them that antique does not necessarily translate into dollars.  Demand and rarity.  I spied a rather nice teapot and Depression era dessert dishes.

Usual suspects in the core including Nessie's which specializes in British imports.  Picked up a bottle of avocado oil from A Matter of Taste to add to the collection.

Cobourg has a good beach area (clean, groomed sand), marina, boardwalk, lighthouse, farmers' market and a gallery located at the Victoria Hall.

 

The sun decided to make an appearance for a change.  So much easier without the burden of the umbrella and galoshes.

 

Headed Northwest to Roseneath sans coffee.  If you make the pilgrimage make sure to visit the historic Carousel and make sure it's a Sunday afternoon. 

 

 

 

 

Dropped down #18 to Harwood.  #18 skirts Rice Lake as far as Gores Landing. Most of the land is occupied by camp sites and cottages but every once in a while, the lake appears.

 

 

 

 

Approaching tea time and called at The Victorian Inn.  Naturally, it was closed for a private function.  The inn offers B & B, lunch and dinner in a very pleasant setting.  My advice?  Call ahead.

 

Took a side road North to the lakefront to take in the view.  Not a parking zone but someone decided to park anyway thus rendering my three point turn damn nigh impossible.  I chose to speak up this time.  Perplexed, the driver was unable to rationalize his decision making.

 

#18 goes South and you will pick up #9 to Bewdley-tip of the lake. #9 is busy so take a lesser travelled line road if you can't handle the traffic. Bewdley clearly gets the crowds because the parking seemed a little excessive for such a small spot. Lots of boating.  Spied a pizza shack and a roadhouse-The Hippo? No, The Rhino Roadhouse. Decide to hold out until dinner. 

 

Storm clouds brewing at this point.

 

 

 

#28 to Port Hope.  Second visit which was more to remind me of what was there.  Bigger than I remembered.  Try to schedule yourselves around The Jazz Festival in September or live theatre at The Capitol.  Decide on a driving tour of Orchard Country which took in the gates of the former Massey House, the Farrely House and the Farini House-famous tightrope walker.

 

 

 

Favourite spot?  Heading South after the Farrely House crossing the Ganaraska River.

 

 

 

 

Then came the rains and it was time to find the 401 and prepare for the approach to Oshawa and reality.



 

 

 



People Watching-Small Town Ontario-PEC to Cobourg

Prince Edward County/Brighton/Cobourg

Up early and scrambled for the juice, milk and eggs; popped them in the fridge and back to bed for an hour.  Snoozing is a perfectly respectable past time.  Cooking with a Tandoor on the Food Network.  Love tandoor chicken.  Please use an oven glove if you're trying the naan at home.
Very leisurely breakfast. Checkout smooth-very pleasant staff; makes a change.

Day two on PEC.  Rain, as per usual.  The North seems to favour the monied set.  Stately homes overlooking the Bay of Quinte.  Try the detour on Old Orchard Road.

Heavy rain at Rednersville.  The Old Country Store barely visible through the drops. Another bit of farm heaven.

Turned South at Rossmore down #62.  High tea is available in Belleville so it's now or never at this point. 

Are the skies actually clearing?  Hot and humid in Picton.  After a round in the kitchen stores (enjoyed Cookes-sauces, coffee beans, teas) on to The Buddha Dog.

As a rule, I would not normally indulge in such fare but this is real sausage from local meat, local cheese and locally sourced ingredients for the sauces.  Family owned business.  Enjoyed the county map on the wall-a black board listing farms and wineries.  The boy was tidying up and returned a chair to my table.  His father chastised him for inconveniencing me.  Had planned to try Currah's this time around but with ice cream looming saved it for next time.  Next door is The Bean Counter-good coffee, homemade ice cream; lunch is available.

Did not do the winery route on this trip.  Last time picked up some nice wines from Huff Estates, Sandbanks and Closson Chase. Enjoyed The Grange-nice rustic setting; good Pinot Gris. 

Humidity persisted so took in Woody Allen's "To Rome With Love" and was reminded why I don't go to the movies.  Crinkle of popcorn bags, rustle of candy wrapping and so on.  Big Woody Allen fan and enjoyed this one.  It is unusual seeing Euro-Woody.  So used to Annie Hall and Hannah and Her Sisters.  Have to follow the money.

The Regent Theatre hosts both movies and live show.  Last time on PEC it was "Inglorious Basterds".  We all enjoyed that.

Lots of crowds-the Eastern version of Niagara on the Lake.  The Copper Kettle for ice cream-try the spun toffee.  The Kettle make chocolate bars, truffles and ice cream.  Do not recommend the chocolate-too many ingredients.  Better to indulge in a small piece of good quality chocolate than a whole bar of sub par fare. The truffles were rather nice, though.

Beware the intersection  at #8 / #7.  If you're looking for a view, try # 7.  Turn West to take in the Lake on the Mountain.

Left town via Hwy #4 this time to #62 and crossed on Burr Road to escape the traffic.  On to Cobourg via #2.  Exhaustion setting in-lost another two hours.  The G & T calls.

 

 

 

Icy reception from the Assistant Manager at the second hotel.  No name tags here, no uniforms,  no complimentary Toronto Star.  No welcome feeling at all.  Got an adjoining room at the end of the corridor by the stairwell.  Time to break out the ear plugs.

Tonight it was Little Mosque on the Prairie which I'd never seen before (Mary Walsh guesting) and Michael.  Finally placed the girlfriend-Slings and Arrows which is one of the better series out there.

People Watching-Small Town Ontario-Northumberland

Northward Bound

Expectations met. 
Room temperature juice, Frosted Flakes (my gums are still aching from the sugar), two boiled eggs that had been run through the deflavourizing machine, a tea biscuit and a pot of coffee.
As you know, no TV on the home front so indulged in a little HGTV.

Cooler than expected and a threat of rain.  First stop the Bleasedell Boulder.  The Lower Trent Conservation is a nice spot with easy hiking.  Met a father, son and dog (off its leash, but I refrained from saying anything which is unusual for me) rambling in the woods.  Two short hiking trails to choose from.

Debated how much weight the trunk would hold.  Some nice rock specimens that would look good in the garden.

http://www.ltc.on.ca/

On to Frankford through the spitting rain.  Not a great deal in the core.  Lots of fishing spots; an island conservation area.

Great drive through the rain to Stirling.  Crumbling barns and farmyards.  Very reminiscent of English countryside-sheep grazing on rolling hillsides.

 

 

By now, the pot of coffee had worked its way through the system and first task was the WC.  Times like these one appreciates the ubiquitous Hortons.  Time was a WC at Tims was a nightmare and strictly for emergency purposes.  Things have come a long way.  Not too many Tims in the North-this is a good thing.  Try to support the local coffee shop.  (Side note for Mitchell in Perth County-cannot recommend the local coffee or tea-vile; they do bake enormous doughnuts so if a sugar rush is your thing... )  Try West Wings Espresso Bar.  A curious coffee house-cappuccino, new & used books and clothing all under one roof.  A lot of square footage.  Fair trade coffee.

 

Walked around in near drizzle.  A variety of shops, the Stirling Creamery, water space, town square-nice gardens; the War Memorial.  Everyone should visit their local War Memorial.

 

 

 



 

 

Back to farm country and Campbellford.  Beware the traffic light system.  You will need lots of patience to make the left turn over the Trent bridge.  I do like the old lights though.  Throughout the counties you have the discreet traffic lights of yesteryear which I like because the modern city lights are an eyesore-sometimes four to an intersection.  Not one but two Chinese restaurants- didn't think the population could sustain both.  Settled on the Chinese because, after waiting a coon's age for the traffic light to change,  I ran out of time to consider options on the other side of the bridge. Curse my cappuccino dependency!

 

Went with the Ming Star. Key draw at the Ming is the noon hour buffet.  The place cleared out at 14:00 on the dot.  Went with the egg roll and curry which somehow got brought at the same time.  They brought the soup and mains together at another table. Curious cast of patrons-father and son eating in silence-spied a sausage on somebody's plate.  Man on the left discussing his schizophrenic bass player.

 

Curtain rods about to collapse under the weight of the drapery, landscape and horse prints on the walls-no doubt inherited from the previous owners.  Carpet buckling underfoot which must surely be a trip hazard.  Christmas decorations?  Surprisingly, the food was more than palatable.

 

Walked over the bridge this time to the riverbank and Campbellford's claim to fame-the big Toonie.

 

 

 

A woman asked the time of day but it seemed that she might be asking everyone the time of day.

Clouds hanging heavy.

 

 

 

Back to the car and the rains came down.  On to Hastings.  Slightly smaller version of Campbellford.  Easier to get over the bridge here.  Some very nice waterfront spots.  The plan was Kawartha ice cream but this was abandoned with the rain and "cold".

 

 

 

Turned onto Concession 13/Water Street heading out of town and came across one of the quietest spots in Ontario.  Gorgeous countryside. 

 

 

Last stop was the village of Warkworth.  A nice stop for, you guessed it, coffee.  Small trail system which was created for the Centennial project.  A few shops very much geared up for tourists.  Streets and buildings clean and tidy.  And yes, another kitchen supply store.  Finally laid my hands on a jar of preserved lemons. (More about the lemons in an upcoming food post.)   McGarrigles mustard with port and champagne.  Scooped up a few jars for the Pater.  Interesting to note the price of whisks.  In Campbellford- $1.99; the same one here is $3.99.  Good spot for coffee-The Supreme Bean.  Purveryors of objets d'art and garlic of all things.

 

 

Back to Trenton via Wooler.  The rain persists.

 

A shower, a G & T, William & Mary with Martin Clunes.  Exhaustion setting in two hours earlier than last night.  Looking forward to those eggs!!

 

People Watching-Small Town Ontario

Destination: Prince Edward County

Hot and humid-broke a sweat loading the car.  Showered and changed a third time. Good run until Pearson-crawled for half an eternity-no known cause for delay-is there ever?

Passing on the right still favoured by most drivers.
53 Footers sitting in the left lane; also sitting about a quarter inch away from my bumper.  You in the blue cab, yes, I'm talking to you. (And no, I was not doing 80 when others were doing 120.)
After some weaving, blue cab achieved a cars length distance ahead of me.  Pat on the back for you. 
I like to quietly applaud drivers who manage to get one car length ahead of me or get to a red light before me.  What are you doing?  You can see it's red-where do you think you're going?  I digress.
Once you're passed Oshawa, the tension eases and the scenery returns.

Two hours later, arrived in Trenton. Desperation for yet another shower.
Chose to economize on this run with a chain hotel.  You've got your breakfast made for you and a private bath.  Unlike some B & B's all the amenities are in the room. Sometimes it feels like you're there to support the B & B antique collection and in exchange you have access to a communal kettle.  Last trip east stayed at a B & B on Prince Edward County (PEC).   Breakfast  consisted of a muffin (before the main meal) and Eggs Benedict on  English muffin with a side of toast.  The eggs are already on bread.  What one really needs is a side portion of pig-bacon, sausage, ham !!  I digress.

Tried to check in but someone suffering from "I can't wait my turn syndrome" volleyed a series of questions and requests to the manager.  Do you see that I'm being processed? 

15:00  Head down to Trenton to Hwy 33.  I suspect Trenton is like most towns-you have to be shown where to go.  Otherwise the only things that jump out at you are the tattoo lounges, the nail salons and the tanning rooms.  Interesting road system.  You may find yourself crossing the Trent Waterway several times.

Fine drive down Hwy 33 to Consecon.  Unlike my local buildings, the old church has not been sold off nor has it been torn down but is now serving as the local library.  Good to see reuse, not rubble. PEC is seldom visible thanks to tourist traps and private property.  Nice spot overlooking Wellers Bay. On the left is an old church yard.  I like churchyards.  You have the whole history of the community contained on one stone.  Entire families in one plot -children wiped out by disease at a young age; mothers dying in childbirth.

Nice water spaces in Consecon.  Couple of people doing the "can't be bothered getting out of the car" tour of the county.  Park up, stretch your legs and get some sense of the place.

Take Hwy 1 out of the village. Great views.  Lots of farm country-cows, goats and lambs.

 

 

Meandered along Hwy 1 & 2 into Wellington then Bloomfield.  Recommend the Marshmallow Cafe-fresh bread, home pates, local cheeses and fabulous pastry.  Stop for a pot of tea.

On through Cherry Valley & Milford. Took a very civilized luncheon overlooking Prince Edward Bay.  Very civilized dinner more like as it was 18:30 before a suitable spot materialized. Shrimp, olives, quiche and chocolate torte.  Wrestled with a lid but couldn't open the jar of pickled asparagus! Alas.  Soundtrack of lapping water, a bird and a cricket.  Only company was a butterfly.  Delightful.

Finished up the day in Picton for a little reconnaissance.  Most people don't realize that there is free parking off the side streets-you don't have to feed the meter or park miles away.  Plenty of shops and restaurants to keep everyone amused.  Returning two days hence.

Commiserated with a homeowner over the lack of rain.  Their garden was jammed with colour and we swapped some notes.

Interesting drive back to Trenton.  Hwy 4 to 19 this time.  You forget the sun is setting earlier this time of year.  No street lights on the highways and side roads.  Of course yours is the only vehicle on the road at this time of day.   Approaching 22:00 and managed a U-turn or two.  Over the Waterway and a final U-turn at CFB Trenton.  Hadn't realized the size of the place.

A final shower, a couple of G & T's and a little Public Television-Fractals-fascinating subject. Wonder one can take much in after a day of driving, fresh air and walking.
Gearing up for breakfast and the mass-produced, rubber eggs.  Will my expectations be met?

Until next time.